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Over the years, coolstuff has covered many different parts of Upstate New York - from Troy to Livingston Manor, but one area that has yet to be touched upon by us is the Northeastern Catskills. This area, encompassing a number of towns (like Catskill and Leeds) is just over the river from Hudson, and has quickly become one of our favorite parts of the region. We’ve assembled our favorite picks across a whole host of towns, because for us, the best day upstate involves bopping around to a handful of different areas and sampling the best of what each town has offer.
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One thing about us is that when we leave the city and head upstate, we like to find a place that helps us nestle into the natural surroundings and reset our high-wired city brains. Camptown in Leeds is the perfect place to do just that. Conveniently located, yet still sprinkled with trees and moss, the collection of cabins and rooms perfectly captures the fantasy of a mid-century upstate getaway. From sundown campfires to summertime dips in the pool, there’s something here for every season. Oh, and did we mention it’s only a 10 minute drive from Hudson? As such, we’ve also included a handful of Hudson Valley favorites that are 30 minutes or less from Catskill and Leeds.
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On the Camptown property is Casa Susanna, one of the most ambitious and delicious restaurants in the Catskills. Helmed by chef Efrén Hernández, homemade masa and a singular approach to Mexican cooking has earned the chef recognition as a James Beard semifinalist three years running. On a recent visit we were equally impressed by the food as we were the Mexican-leaning cocktail program, and the Sope topped with Maitake mushrooms was a standout favorite.
Across the street from Camptown is Gracie’s. This humble restaurant (with spectacular views) serves up quintessentially perfect versions of diner classics like hash browns, breakfast sandwiches, and pancakes. Although, the real draw, whether you stop in for a full meal or not, are Gracie's donuts. Light and transcendent in a way that makes you feel like you’re eating sweet, fluffy air.
Another breakfast/lunch favorite in the area is Quinnie’s. Their focaccia breakfast sandwich, topped with a jammy egg and homemade kimchi is one of the greatest AM bites in upstate New York. Complemented by super friendly staff and ample seating both indoors and out, this is a perfect stop for a bite before heading to Art Omi.
This brewery makes sure that every ale which comes out of their doors is brewed using grains directly from New York State. On a recent visit we enjoyed their perfectly bitter euro-style pilsner and a few smashburgers, which for locals are as much of a draw as the beer.
The newest addition to the area, Dove’s Diner lives within the old West Taghkanic Diner which changed hands a few times before finally closing a few years back. The new iteration, which takes the diner back to the basics in a gently refreshed space (and with helping hands from some of the team behind Kitty’s in Hudson.) When you’re hitting the road from the Catskills to head back to the city, Dove’s is the perfect goodbye.
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Coffee and greeting cards in a sunny space just up the road from Camptown! Hartland is a perfect place to go to get a sense of the community in Leeds, with old friends meeting new and sipping perfectly brewed cups of coffee featuring beans roasted by Touchy Coffee.
The new-in-town cool kids cafe is the ideal place for an afternoon cup (or glass of wine) while you sink into the very chic listening room. We highly recommend letting the baristas here steer your recommendations as unlike most coffee shops, you’ve got a large menu of coffees and roasts to choose from for your drink.
Truly considered cocktails that deeply compliment the food of Casa Susanna, the Camptown bar is a casual place where visitors and locals alike belly up for a cocktail or beer. In the Summer, the Camptown bar also expands to offer poolside drinks for those soaking up the rays.
Part brewery, part pizzeria, 100% locals hangout, this spot feels like the town square of Athens, particularly in the colder months.
Everything about Isola screams date night, especially if you’re the type to enjoy a cheeky glass of wine before the sun sets in this light-drenched Kinderhook space.
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A warm and unique showroom on a roadside family farm, A. THERIEN offers a blend of new and antique furniture and textiles alongside extremely special and rare art books. Just a short jaunt deeper into the country, this shop is absolutely worth a perusal.
While the Main Street workshop of this modern and unique furniture maker isn’t often open to the public, the front window of Loose Parts is perfectly positioned for us to dream (and drool) over their furniture systems displayed for our enjoyment.
Ever wanted to get cheese and milk and butter right from the source? Churchtown Dairy is a clean, high end farm that has a small retail shop selling products made right on the farm as well as a selection of skincare and pantry items from their friends.
For everything from a chilled red to s’mores kits to clam chowder, the Camptown Pantry is a 24-hour honor pantry for snacks, bevvies, and ingredients if you’re staying at the property. Don’t miss out on the house beer brewed in collaboration with Arrowood Farms!
We love a store that supports and celebrates local designers and creatives! Made x Hudson stocks upcycled and hand-made goods from artists all over the Upstate are (and some in the city!)
This sweet little Catskill shop has all the coolest Upstate brands in home & beauty, including their own brand of hand-woven baskets.
On a sleepy little main street right out of a movie set, Reed Street Bottle Shop has one of the most singular selections of wine and spirits we’ve seen in a while. Leaning mostly natural, there are plenty of options from a table of picks under $15 to large format bottles and hand-to-find favorites.
An upstate original, you’ve almost certainly passed by a Stewart’s Shops if you’ve ever spent time north of the city. While you might categorize the chain today as gas stations, the business originally started out as a dairy farm, and as such still has truly amazing ice cream to this day…with a DIY sprinkles bar of course!
This sweet coffee/provisions shop hybrid is worth the visit to Kinderhook alone. They’re serving up seriously good cold brew, classic box mac&cheese, and hand-painted greeting cards. You’ll probably want to have your coffee at the cafe to chat with the friendly staff longer.
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A sprawling sculpture park across 120 acres of land, this free and dog-friendly place is one of our favorite ways to spend time outdoors when upstate. Get lost in the back fields, interact with a sculpture covered in basketball hoops, take some of the trails that cross through woods, and enjoy whatever weather the day has to offer.
There are not many things more relaxing than a sauna in a beautifully serene space upstate. Camptown’s two free-standing saunas are placed around the cabins and are totally private. Don’t forget to pre-book when you arrive at check-in!
On the top floor of a space which houses a cafe, a bar, and a few studios, September Gallery feels just as at home on the main street of Kinderhook as it would in Chelsea. On the day we visited there were three compelling solo shows up with pieces spanning painting, sculpture, and digital work.
For those of you who like to check out the local music scene when traveling…this is your place. Also, word on the street is that they have a food menu worth going to check out, even if there are no shows on when you’re in town.
There’s something about upstate New York that makes it ripe for pretending like you’re taking a step back in time - to before cell phones and constant connection. During the warmer months you can dig into that feeling by catching a film at Hi Way Drive In, one of only a few remaining drive-in theatres in the US.
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